tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6804357795627865752024-03-08T15:30:42.556-06:00Tim Koo PhotoTimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-11813658302468418662009-04-21T10:30:00.002-05:002009-04-21T10:33:51.372-05:00Competition Winner!Thanks to the folks over at Digital Photography School for choosing me as 2nd place winner of their photography tip contest.<br /><br />I wrote an article about getting over trying to learn the technical side of photography from a computer and going out and putting things into practice instead.<br /><br />Head on over to DPS to give it a read <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/go-out-and-shoot#more-5418">here!</a>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-92118851360005348202009-02-22T01:21:00.002-06:002009-02-22T01:23:19.140-06:00New Website<span xmlns=''><p>I've been working on my new website for some while. It's almost in its final stages, and I just need to add photos to the rest of the galleries and we should be good to go!<br /></p><p>If you have any comments or suggestions for the new site, let me know!<br /></p><p><a href='http://www.timkoophoto.com'>www.timkoophoto.com</a><br /> </p><p>Been shooting just a little bit with my new D700, but I'm really loving it. It surely is at least a five-year body. Not much can be improved from this baby.<br /></p><p>School work's been piling up, so I'm sorry that I haven't been posting frequently. I will try and be better about it. At least 2-3 posts per week. WITH PICTURES!<br /></p><p>In other news, I booked my next wedding today. Scheduled for Sept 26, 2009 in Champaign, IL. Thanks to Kirstin Phelps for the referral!<br /><p>Here they are: Alix and Byron<br><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/478247238_dgugb-M.jpg"><br><br />ISO 6400 f/2 1/80<br /></p><p>I think the direction of this blog will also shift just a bit. Instead of just technical photo jargon, I will also use it as a typical blog for my personal use. More on that later.<br /></p></span>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-35659573320955771472009-01-29T20:02:00.003-06:002009-01-29T20:18:09.548-06:00D700<span xmlns=""><p>My D700 arrived yesterday. The Nikon D700 is one of Nikon's top pro bodies available. It's a change from the D90 in terms of size and weight, but I've been working out to carry the beast :). I received it at a good price with the MB-D10 grip, and a Kirk L-Bracket. I put 8 AA's into the grip to boost the body up to 8fps and this baby RIPS. It can shoot highly usable files at ISO 6400 with minimal post processing. These files are beautiful. It is also a full-frame camera (36x24) sensor. Meaning that my lenses are now what they were supposed to be. No more crop factor or DX. Image quality has gone up significantly and my images feel more quality than what I got out of the D90. I'm looking forward to future shoots with the body and can't wait until it's a little bit warmer outside. Without further adieu, I present to you my baby D700 along with some Hi-ISO test shots (of course!).<br /></p><br /><p><br /><img src="http://www.timkoophoto.com/photos/463544495_aZFU8-L.jpg"><br><br><br /><img src="http://www.timkoophoto.com/photos/463544812_M58pp-L.jpg"><br><br><br /><img src="http://www.timkoophoto.com/photos/463544975_ofcF6-L.jpg"><br><br><br /><img src="http://www.timkoophoto.com/photos/463545283_e8pd6-L.jpg"><br><br><br /><img src="http://www.timkoophoto.com/photos/463543756_WFhQ5-L.jpg"><br><br><br /><img src="http://www.timkoophoto.com/photos/463563088_L4tcW-L.jpg"><br><br><br />130mm 1/80 f/3.5 ISO 6400<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/464208664_biod3-L.jpg"><br><br><br />200mm 1/25 f/2.8 ISO 6400<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/464208691_VWwNJ-L.jpg"><br><br><br />85mm 1/320 f/1.4 ISO 6400 (underexposed, but still noiseless)<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/464208716_erwrR-L.jpg"><br><br><br />85mm 1/640 f/1.4 ISO 6400<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/464208625_hBPvM-L.jpg"><br><br>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-14416012025460923662009-01-27T00:44:00.001-06:002009-01-27T00:44:37.082-06:00:)<span xmlns=''><p>Ordered my D700 at the end of last week. Should be getting it Wednesday. More updates as they come!<br /></p></span>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-48467175964887027852009-01-23T00:38:00.006-06:002009-01-23T00:51:13.166-06:00Nailing the Exposure (3 of 3)<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/449843094_KKyAa-XL.jpg"></a><br /><span xmlns=""><p>Sorry it's been so long since I've last blogged. Winter break was a blur and I'm back on campus now.<br /></p><p>Our last component of exposure is shutter speed, or the time it takes for the mirror to go up and down and the image to be captured.</p><p>This is the last variable that I change while shooting and is my most often changed variable. So to recap: I set my ISO depending on the environment - base ISO (typically 100 or 200) for outdoors in sun and 800-1600 for dimly lit, interiors. I then set my aperture for the depth of field that I want. f/1.4 - f/2.8 for shallow depth of field, and f/3.5 and up if I need more depth of field. Remembering that the lower the number, the more light that enters. Lastly I set my shutter speed.<br /></p><p>Shutter speed, as mentioned before, determines how fast your shutter *clicks*. This determines how long light can enter the camera and how long the shutter is recording for. A slower shutter speed lets more light in and a faster shutter speed lets in less light. Therefore, typically you will need a slower shutter speed in darker settings and a faster one in bright settings.</p><p>Shutter speeds are typically stated as a fraction of a second. If your camera reads "8000", it means that your shutter speed is 1/8000th of a second. 40 => 1/40th of a second and so forth. If your camera reads 1", 2", 3", etc. it means 1 second, 2 seconds, 3 seconds, and so forth.</p><p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Fast shutter speeds have these perks:</span><br />Help eliminate lens blur due to camera shake<br />"Freeze" action<br /></p><p>The general "rule of thumb" for shutter speed was that you want to have at least 1/focal length as your shutter speed in order to prevent camera shake.<br />e.g. A 50mm lens should be shot at a shutter speed of at least 1/50. 105mm lens at 1/100, etc.</p><p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">So why use slower shutter speeds? It seems like they do nothing! Wrong! Here are a few perks:</span><br />Let more light in allowing you to get a better exposure<br />Allow you to purposely "blur" images via panning<br />With a combination of flash and rear curtain sync, a slow shutter can show motion while freezing motion<br />Make awesome light trails, light graffiti, and star trails!<br />The one caveat is that you most likely want to have a good tripod support system to shoot with slower shutter speeds in order to eliminate camera shake (blurry images!)</p><p>I'll end with a few sample images and explain how shutter speed was used to make the image.</p><p>A slow shutter speed (1/30) was used for this image along with a panning motion to have a sharp car with blurred background<img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/449843094_KKyAa-XL.jpg" /></p></span><br />A long shutter speed (30") was used for this image to capture streaks of cars as they passed by.<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/449844655_XeVXh-XL.jpg" /><br /><br />A long shutter (1/8) with rear curtain sync and flash used<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/427156203_n46Aj-XL.jpg" /><br /><br />A fast shutter (1/1000) used to freeze the action of the race<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/351555414_jGbQN-XL.jpg" />Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-56291056238362269672008-12-01T13:38:00.006-06:002008-12-01T15:13:29.594-06:00Nailing the Exposure (2 of 3)<span xmlns=''><p>Today we'll be discussing the second of three variables, ISO.<br /></p><p>ISO goes back to the film days when different films had different ASA/ISO speeds. You could buy a film with an ASA/ISO rating of 16, 50, 100, 400, 3200, etc. You could "Push" the speed of your film while sacrificing image quality. ISO back then referred to the sensitivity of the film to light and in today's digital world refers to the sensitivity of the image sensor to light.<br /></p><p>A higher ISO speed/setting means more sensitive to light (brighter image, all other variables held constant) and a lower ISO implies less sensitivity to light (darker image, all other variables held constant)<br/>You can test this out my setting your camera to Manual mode and setting any aperture/shutter speed. As you increase your ISO you'll notice that your exposure becomes brighter. Of course, as with the other two variables (aperture and shutter speed) ISO has both its pros and cons.<br /></p><p>ISO is the first variable that I change whenever I enter my shooting environment. Using ISO 800-3200 when I'm indoors with artificial light and ISO 100-400 when I'm outdoors with plenty of sunlight. I think it's pretty self explanatory why, but if you haven't caught on… Use a lower ISO when there's plenty of light, because you'll be able to maintain a good aperture/shutter speed at pretty much any ISO and a higher ISO when you have poor lighting conditions, because you want your sensor to be more sensitive to light in order to obtain a better aperture and shutter speed.<br /></p><p><strong>Pros of ISO</strong><br/>As mentioned earlier, ISO is the first variable that I set. A higher ISO allows me to increase my shutter speed or aperture than a lower ISO would allow. Think about darker environments when you need a 1" shutter speed to get a good exposure at ISO 100. Definitely not hand holdable and if you're caught without a tripod, good luck with the shot! But by increasing ISO to 1600 or so you can maybe squeeze off a 1/15 shutter speed that is handholdable with good technique.<br/>I know you're thinking now, so why can't I just use any ISO that I want and always have a faster shutter speed or stop down my aperture? Well, here come the cons.<br /></p><p><strong>Cons of ISO</strong><br/>If we could shoot at any ISO we wanted with no trade off to image quality, all photographer would rejoice and there would be no need for new cameras with better high ISO capabilities and we'd all be a happy bunch. The biggest trade off of higher ISOs is image quality and noise. As you increase your ISO, your image quality will go down and you'll start to see noise or graininess in your photos [especially in shadows and dark spots]. Newer cameras are getting better and better at having better image quality at higher ISOs and that is one of the biggest upgrades that newer, more expensive cameras give over the older cameras [high ISO, low noise]<br/>Although, noise can be decreased by ensuring that you "nail your exposure" (what we're trying to accomplish here). Because perfectly exposed images tend to have less noise than underexposed/overexposed images.<br /></p><p><strong>Quick summary:<br/></strong>Low ISO, GOOD; High ISO, BAD [in terms of image quality]<br/>Low ISO, darker & less sensitive; High ISO, brighter & more sensitive [to light]<br/>ISO 100-400 outdoors (100 on sunny days, 400 when cloudier or closer to sunrise/sunset)<br/>ISO 800-3200?6400?12800?25600? indoors (unless you have a D3, D3x, D700, or 5dMk2 I wouldn't suggest shooting over ISO 3200 :] )<br /></p><p><strong>A quick example:</strong><br/>This image was taken at ISO 800<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/371072431_KEvhm-XL.jpgg"><br /></p><p>ISO 1600<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/371072439_NwpaK-XL.jpg"><br /></p><p>ISO 3200<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/371072573_NzdgJ-XL.jpg"><br /></p><p>ISO 6400<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/371072538_EibPp-XL.jpg"><br /></p><p>Get it now? :) Next time we'll be covering the third and final variable to exposure, shutter speed.<br /></p></span>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-703556157099128922008-11-26T23:01:00.001-06:002008-11-26T23:01:10.676-06:00Gear Changes<span xmlns=''><p>You may notice that I've shifted quite a bit of my gear around. Thought I'd do a small rewrite of my first post about my gear.<br /></p><p>Changes that have been made in the past few months:<br/>Sold D200 body for D90 body<br/>Trying to sell Tamron 17-50 f/2.8, replaced by Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 AF-S<br/>Sold Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 AF-S for Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 AF-S VR<br/>Bought Nikon 55mm f/3.5 AI'S<br /></p><p>Sell Nikon D200 body for Nikon D90 body.<br/>Back in August, Nikon released the new D90. The first ever dSLR to offer HD video recording capability. I remember a year ago when I told myself, man I wish my camera could take video like a point and shoot. Fast forward a year and here we are with my new D90 that can record at 24fps @ 720p HD resolution!!! It was a big decision to make between the D90 and the D200. The D90 adopted the same sensor from the Nikon D300 (Nikon's current professional DX body) and has a lot better low-noise, high ISO performance. I feel that the files are usable up to ISO 3200 with less sacrifice to image quality. It may be important to note that the video capability was definitely a perk, but not the main reason for buying the camera. One big sacrifice I made with the D90 is build quality. The D90 is built well, but definitely not 'like a rock' like the D200 is. Because of the switch, I also converted back to SD cards from CF. I also had my MB-D80 battery grip from my D80 lying around (wouldn't sell on forums) and it just so ended being compatible with the D90 so another plus!<br /></p><p>Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 AF-S over Tamron 17-50 f/2.8. Don't get me wrong, the Tamron is a true performer!!! The Nikon is slightly sharper and has slightly better color rendition, but it's fair to say these lenses are optically close. The big perk was in build quality. The Nikon feels sturdy and tough. I would not fear damaging the lens. Ultimately the reason why I switched was because I found the 17-55 at such a steal that it was worth the $300 difference to upgrade.<br /></p><p>Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 AF-S VR for 80-200 f/2.8 AF-S. Will never look back to the 80-200 AF-S. I thought that that lens was sharp… the 70-200 will blow it away by a mile! This baby is razor sharp at 2.8 and only gets better by stopping down. The addition of VR is incredibly helpful as well; especially with recording videos. Also found this lens at a great price and was able to sell my 80-200 so I jumped on it.<br /></p><p>Nikon 55mm f/3.5 AI'S. Cheapo, old-school, manual focus lens. This lens is just FUN! The ability to use it as a 1:2 macro lens and practicing my manual focusing skills are a definite plus. This lens actually does not meter on my D90 so I need to guess and chimp for my exposure. It's fun to try and guess what settings to use and see how my exposures are. Definitely a learning lens. Also is great on my N90s film camera.<br /></p><p>That's all for now, stay tuned for part 2 and 3 of Nailing the Exposure: Shutter Speed and ISO.<br /></p></span>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-32948732931221617252008-11-26T22:32:00.002-06:002008-11-26T22:41:33.918-06:00Nailing the Exposure (1 of 3)<span xmlns=""><p>As mentioned before, there are three key components to exposure. Aperture, ISO, and shutter speed.<br /></p><p>Aperture is the size of the opening (allowing more or less light in to the sensor)<br />ISO is the sensitivity of the sensor to light<br />Shutter speed is how long the shutter remains open (mirror up, mirror down *CLICK*)<br /></p><p>A typical analogy is that of a hose. Aperture is the size of the opening of the hose, ISO is the quality of the hose and shutter speed is how long the hose is left open to let water in/out.<br /></p><p>Each variable works together in creating the exposure, but each has its pros and cons. In this post, we're going to focus on aperture.<br /></p><p><strong>Aperture</strong><br />Aperture, as mentioned before, is the size of the opening. This variable is typically measured in f/ stops and is limited by the lens that you use. A smaller f/ number, means a larger opening. Counter-intuitive, I know. Each lens has its own "maximum aperture" which is the smallest f/ number that it can be stopped down to. The lower the f/ number, the more expensive the lens typically is.<br />There are two types of lenses: fixed aperture and variable aperture. Fixed aperture lenses have one f/ number and remain at that f/ number throughout the zoom range. Variable aperture lenses are found typically on lower-end zooms / kit lenses. These have a maximum aperture that changes as the focal length/zoom changes. (e.g. a 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 lens will have a maximum aperture of f/3.5 at 18mm and f/5.6 at 55mm. The max aperture at 19-54mm will be somewhere within 3.5-5.6)<br /></p><p>Enough about the technical stuff. Let's get to the nitty gritty.<br />Aperture affects <strong>how much light comes in</strong> and <strong>depth of field</strong>. <br />A bigger aperture (smaller f/ number) allows more light to enter. Allowing you to use a faster shutter to capture an image. Therefore, bigger aperture = brighter, smaller aperture = darker. <br />Which raises the question, "Why would I ever want to lower my aperture? Don't I want a lot of light?" leading us to the next effect that aperture has on the image: depth of field.<br />Depth of field refers to the "depth" of your image. Ever see portraits where eyes are in focus and ears are out of focus? The blur is caused by a large aperture (small f/ number). A larger aperture will reduce your depth of field (make more shallow). f/1.2-f/2.8 will give you great subject isolation, but are difficult to use at times because a slight error will cause your image to be out of focus, because the depth of field (dof) is so thin/shallow. For group shots, you'll typically want to use an aperture of f/4 or lower to make sure everybody's in focus and for landscapes you'll want to use f/8-f/11 to ensure that EVERYTHING remains in focus.<br /></p></span>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-29370162067546492112008-11-07T01:48:00.006-06:002008-11-07T01:51:53.046-06:00Getting Started<span xmlns=""><p style="MARGIN-LEFT: 19pt">Why buy a dSLR you ask? Digital SLRs provide the high quality photos that [film] SLRs provided long ago with the capability to instantly review images and have them on your computer easily without having to develop and scan film. dSLRs are still a bit behind the superb quality that film has, but with newer full-frame cameras like the Nikon D3, D700, Canon 5d mk II, 1D mk III - film-like quality is almost attainable.<br /></p><p style="MARGIN-LEFT: 19pt">dSLRs provide several advantages over standard point and shoots.<br /></p><ul><li>Complete control over your camera. The ability to set shutter speed, ISO, aperture, and color balance. This insures that you get the best image possible [technically speaking]<br /></li><li>Higher FPS [frames per second]. Love to make flip books? Take action shots? Here's where FPS is handy.<br /></li><li>High quality images. A common misconception is that the more megapixels the camera has, the better quality the image will be. In fact, it is the sensor that determines the image quality. Megapixels simply determine the pixel density. dSLRs use larger sensors than standard P&S [point and shoot] cameras yielding greater quality images.<br /></li><li>Interchangeable lenses. I have a different lens for every occasion. The fisheye for ultrawides and fun, a zoom for a nice walk-around lens. My 85mm f/1.4D for portraits. Each lens plays its part as a brush does for a painter.<br /></li></ul><p>Once you decide to get your dSLR there are a few things to know.<br /><br /><strong>There are four modes that you should typically shoot in</strong>. P, A/Av, S, and M. These stand for Program, Aperture priority, Shutter priority, and Manual respectively.<br /></p><p>Beginners, please skip the AUTO mode of consumer dSLRS and feel free to set your camera straight to P. The camera will adjust everything but the ISO.<br /></p><p>Aperture priority is where you set the aperture and ISO and the camera will automatically adjust the shutter speed.<br /></p><p>Shutter priority is just the opposite. You set the shutter speed and ISO and the aperture is automatically chosen for you.<br /></p><p>Manual mode is where all three variables are set manually and the exposure is completely in your hands.<br /></p><p><strong>Metering<br /></p></strong><p>There are traditionally three types of metering: Matrix, Center-weighted, and Spot.<br /></p><p>Matrix metering pulls information from the whole scenes and attempts to expose the image according to the entire scene.<br /><br />Center-weighted metering exposes the image for the central area of the image.<br /><br />Spot metering will meter for the center of the frame and nothing else.<br /></p><p><strong>White Balance<br /></p></strong><p>Auto white balance may be a good place to start. Advanced users can venture into shooting a grey-card to preset white balance or tweaking the white balance through menus. One last alternative that I highly prefer is setting white balance on the Kelvin scale.<br /><br />The Kelvin goes from 2,500K - 10,000K (2,500 being cooler and 10,000 warmer) Tungsten lighting tends to be around 2,800K. Fluorescent 4,000K, and Daylight 5,700K.<br /></p></span><br />That's all for me for tonight. Until next time!Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-9539109995179993162008-11-07T01:28:00.006-06:002008-11-26T22:43:22.909-06:00Random ShootsHave had a lot of random shoots lately. A lot of small group pictures and a random shoot with Limee.<br /><br />I've recently upgraded to the Nikon 17-55 AF-S f/2.8 from my Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 and I am loving it.<br /><br />Coming soon: Writing a beginner's guide to exposure (ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture) am hoping to shift this blog into a semi-beginner's guide to dSLRs and photography.<br /><br />Here are some of the pics from my recent shoots.<br /><br />Turkey Run State Park, Indiana with Small Group<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/409736125_kwaqi-M.jpg" /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/409736233_KABDP-M.jpg" /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/409736502_ySgyh-L.jpg" /><br /><br />Photoshoot with Limee<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/409751962_ozBHj-M.jpg" /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/409752042_gaHS2-M.jpg" /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/409752099_b4Cpf-L.jpg" /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/409752123_Ad5n5-L.jpg" />Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-67663671094496980722008-10-16T04:00:00.002-05:002008-10-16T04:07:29.680-05:00Fall is hereBeen extremely busy with school, church, job search, studying for actuarial exams, etc.<br /><br />I wish I had a lot to shoot, but I don't<br /><br />Here's a couple from a short walk I did with my new 55mm f/3.5 AI's Micro lens.<br /><br />Manually exposed with manual focus.<br /><br />And fall comes<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/395298840_uTmgf-S.jpg"><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/395298835_CHNCs-S.jpg">Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-40980723686867899052008-09-13T01:32:00.001-05:002008-09-13T01:34:27.054-05:00D90!Pics of my D90 unboxing<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/371388486_eqFXn-S.jpg"><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/371388495_9tPAU-S.jpg"><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/371388494_i3yZj-S.jpg"><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/371388500_iVnYA-S.jpg"><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/371388499_3whMj-S.jpg"><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/371388502_vYg7S-S.jpg"><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/371388505_RuDUn-S.jpg"><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/371388506_nbbbF-S.jpg">Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-57641436471679983342008-09-09T01:31:00.001-05:002008-09-09T01:33:06.912-05:00September 8John 15:5 I am the vine; you are the branches. If a man remains in me and I in him, he will bear much fruit; apart from me you can do nothing.<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/368961965_N7rxg-M.jpg">Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-27612930497542320882008-09-09T01:22:00.000-05:002008-09-09T01:23:02.045-05:00September 7My normal view<br /><br />Roommate, Brian Cho, from behind<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/368956654_aiq2q-M.jpg">Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-74913345193411140312008-09-09T01:18:00.001-05:002008-09-09T01:18:52.040-05:00September 5Coffee House!<br /><br />Mikey explains the game to the freshmen<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/368954112_c7z2D-S.jpg">Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-10071416415633205662008-09-09T01:12:00.002-05:002008-09-09T01:13:09.987-05:00September 4Cookies!<br /><br />Made these for small group<br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/368950176_HLZJ7-S.jpg">Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-31526258552349647442008-09-02T16:36:00.001-05:002008-09-02T16:36:02.974-05:00Day #2<span xmlns=''><p style='margin-left: 19pt'>Already missed a day because of vacation. Currently studying for my first exam (can you believe I already have an exam?!) Will try and take a picture later and post it up<br /></p><p style='margin-left: 19pt'>Current participants:<br /></p><ul><li>Danny Kim<br /></li><li>Peter Kim<br /></li><li>Steven Lee<br /></li><li><div>Daniel Kang<br /></div><p>I'll be shooting with my D200 and 50 f/1.8D, but hope to have my pre-ordered D90 later this month!<span style='font-family:Times New Roman'><br /> </span></p></li></ul></span>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-58733098370871665912008-08-27T12:38:00.002-05:002008-08-27T12:39:27.281-05:00Nikon D90<span xmlns=""><p>I'm seriously considering picking up the new Nikon D90 that was announced this morning. I've been itching to jump for the D700, but the price has held me back. I'm looking forward to both low-noise high ISO performance and playing with the video seems fun too. </p><p>Heading out to Las Vegas this weekend and I'll be making my final decision then. Let me know if any of you see the D90 for sale anywhere (I'd prefer Amazon, B&H, or Adorama so I don't need to pay $80 in tax). </p><p>Keep on the look out for Vegas photos and my final decision on the camera :)<br /><br />BTW: I've started posting via MS One Note because I randomly stumbled upon it.<br />So far so good.<br /></p><p><br /> </p></span>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-28619429487462658812008-08-19T23:43:00.004-05:002008-08-20T00:54:33.579-05:00September Prime ChallengeI know it's been a long while since I've posted, but I've been busy with moving, driving up and down from Champaign to Chicago, and attending various retreats.<br /><br />Been shooting a bit lately.<br />Pics from Evanston Beach, Indiana Dunes, Botanic Gardens, Chicago, and a few randoms.<br /><br />For the month of September, Peter Kim, Steven Lee, and I are doing a ONE PRIME challenge.<br /><br />The rules are as follows:<br />Can only use ONE prime for the entire month (My weapon of choice is the 50mm f/1.8D)<br />Must take at least one picture a day and post.<br />The goal is to learn how to think differently by being stuck with only a prime.<br />The only time a different lens is allowed is for gigs/events.<br />As an additional stipulation, I am also manual focusing only on my D40.<br /><br />If you want to join me, leave a comment with your blog and we can keep each other accountable.Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-26793954338203970962008-07-18T23:08:00.002-05:002008-07-18T23:22:32.954-05:00DIY Flash Gel FiltersThis summer I acquired a lot more strobes and my lighting kit as well. Been trying to and meaning to experiment a lot with it.<br /><br />One of the first things I did was to go out and make my own gels/filters and figure out a way to mount them.<br /><br />Gels are handy for many different things. You can use Tungsten/Fluorescent (Orange/Green) gels to change your flash's color to match the ambient and to set your camera's WB accordingly.<br /><br />Beyond that, I ordered these <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/45184-REG/Rosco_950SBCNG0103_Cinegel_Swatchbook.html">nice little gel samples from B&H</a> and they gave me about 40981 different colors. They're having a hard time keeping them in stock though. I'd suggest signing up for e-mail alerts to increase your chances.<br /><br />Without further adieu...<br /><br />Materials Required:<br /><br /><ul><li>Name tag holders</li><li>A knife, scissors, Xacto, box cutter, etc.</li><li>Gels!!!</li><li>Velcro</li><li>Common sense</li></ul><p><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/334406127_ccA7h-S.jpg" /><br /><br /></p><p>Now on with it.</p><p>1. Cut the name tag holder to a size that will fit over your flash head<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/334406181_KsK6B-S.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/334406183_iHk34-S.jpg" /> </p><p>2. Add velcro to the ends of the cut out piece and to your flash head.<br />I used the soft end on the tags and the hooked ends on the flash head<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/334406191_SPKMp-S.jpg" /> </p><p>3. Insert Gel into the nifty little holder you made and place on flash</p><p><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/334406112_2ioRc-S.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/334406121_9SNxL-S.jpg" /> </p><p>4. Enjoy!</p><p>Here are just a few samples:<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/334406138_TdGLf-S.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/334406156_Rbb7x-S.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/334406142_KLBL6-S.jpg" /> </p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-89387947955248692872008-07-16T15:08:00.004-05:002008-07-16T15:30:25.063-05:00Danny Kim and Nancy Hwang eSessionI met Danny my freshman year at the U of I. He was my co-leader my freshman year and the craziest person I know. From singing crazy songs, to giving rides to drug dealers, this guy is the real deal :). I met Nancy earlier this year when I ninja'd the proposal. I had a great time shooting for them at Northwestern and Evanston (first eSession!). <br /><br />Best wishes to the both of you on your upcoming marriage!<br /><br /><img src="http://www.timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/332930032_erpV8-M.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://www.timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/332930365_e8kqC-M.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://www.timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/332930021_QNeu9-M.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://www.timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/332929890_qXcaR-M.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://www.timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/332929954_6WAv7-M.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://www.timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/332999612_vfGY5-M.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://www.timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/332929950_PrkTV-M.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://www.timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/332930375_XpxDU-M.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://www.timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/332930162_izUys-M.jpg" />Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-59017465256880913512008-07-13T09:00:00.000-05:002008-07-13T09:03:24.989-05:00Weekend ShootsI'm currently at home in Chicago to do a couple of shoots.<br />Shot with Danny and Nancy who are set to get married on August 9th!<br />Hit up Northwestern campus and Evanston beach and had tons of fun.<br /><br />Today I'm heading up to the Botanic Gardens and shooting for my sister and her sorority sisters. Should be interesting.<br /><br />Will definitely post some pics up when I'm back on campus.<br /><br />Look forward to a post on DIY flash gel/filters and practical uses (as seen on <a href="http://www.strobist.com/">Strobist</a>)<br /><br />Have a great weekend!Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-80916957616758371862008-07-10T14:34:00.003-05:002008-07-10T14:44:59.222-05:00The Circular PolarizerWhen starting photography I heard all this chitter chatter about filters, all these different types, sizes, pros, cons, etc.<br />There were UV, skylight, CPL's (the topic of today's post), ND, color, etc.<br /><br />I started out using UV filters for protection, but then now I simply resort to lens hoods to protect my front element. If I'm caught in a sandstorm, maybe I'll throw on my UV filter.<br /><br />The circular polarizing filter (CPL) is an incredibly useful tool to have handy in a kit.<br /><br />It can cut reflections in glass and water, give skies a deep blue look, and also serve as a faux ND filter and cut a stop of light if conditions are too bright.<br /><br />Here are just a few samples of what a CPL can do.<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/254002713_rf4U5-S.jpg" /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/254002865_BnDNW-S.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/254002769_NGFbQ-S.jpg" /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/254002754_c4h2g-S.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/254002778_M3Wkf-S.jpg" /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/254002789_6ShxZ-S.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/254002855_NfX34-M.jpg" /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/254002845_TG5iU-M.jpg" /><br /><br />All of these were shot at similar settings with the only difference being a turn of the CPL filterTimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-27563415580067345912008-06-30T01:53:00.006-05:002008-06-30T02:38:35.791-05:00My Gear - Why I Have What I HaveGear list on right -> shows all the gear that I currently own.<br /><br />Just wanted to write a quick run-through on what I have, had, and want :)<br /><br />Bodies:<br />Nikon D200 with MB-D200 grip.<br />Nikon D80 with MB-D80 grip. (to be sold soon)<br />Nikon N90s film body.<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/322056633_rqw62-S.jpg" /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/322056257_fYKXE-S.jpg" /><br /><br />My upgrading process was D50 -> D80 because of a few reasons<br /><br /><ol><li>Larger viewfinder</li><li>Larger LCD</li><li>More FPS</li><li>More megapixels</li><li>Availability of battery grip</li><li>Two command dials for easier control of exposure</li><li>Nikon CLS with built-in flash</li></ol><p>From the D80, I upgraded to the D200 because</p><ol><li>I got an incredible deal :)</li><li>More FPS!!!</li><li>Pro body build (magnesium vs. plastic)</li></ol><p>Now the big question. Why Nikon over Canon?</p><p>Long story short, one of my friends and someone I consider my mentor shot Nikon so I wanted to partially follow his footsteps. Another part of me wanted to be different :). Those were my initial reasons for going Nikon. Upon further investigation and experience, I prefer Nikon over Canon for a few reasons</p><ol><li>I love the front and rear dial as opposed to the spinning dial on Canon</li><li>Easy menu system and dedicated buttons to change settings</li><li>Nikon CLS through built-in flash. The ability to trigger my flashes off camera using the built in flash to command them is incredible!</li><li>Easier to change certain settings while shooting (on the fly, without diving into menus)</li></ol><p>I've just recently purchased the film body to really push myself to think about composition and to see what film looks like :)</p><p>Lenses:<br /><br /><strong>The 10.5mm f/2.8 Fisheye</strong> (not pictured)<br />It started off as a novelty lens to me before I really understood how incredible it was. Through Nikon Capture NX and CS3 I can convert fisheye images to be less distorted so this lens also doubles as a wide angle and group shot lens for me. It is an excellent low-light performer and produces amazing images.<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/268373312_VbUSf-S.jpg" /><br />1/4 f/2.8 ISO 400 on D80<br /><br /><strong>Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8</strong><br />I originally started with the Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 and shot with it for awhile. I had a sharp copy and it was a great lens. After shooting for a few months, I yearned for a wider lens (esp. considering DX crop) I decided to sell the 28-75 and try it's little brother the 17-50. I've had it for a couple months and has gotten me through a few gigs. It's a great indoor, close-quarters lens and lets me get fairly wide for group shots and room shots.<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/322056687_iYCh6-L.jpg" /><br /><br /><strong>Nikon 50mm f/1.8D</strong><br />Every Nikonian knows about this lens. Often tagged as the 'nifty fifty' It's a great, sharp, cheap, small lens that produces great shots. At under $100, it's a solid bang for the buck. I use it a lot when f/2.8 just won't get me a fast enough shutter speed.<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/322056219_9TRPS-L.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/244496429_EgScK-S.jpg" /><br />1/640 f/1.8 ISO 200 on a Nikon D40 - MF<br /><br /><strong>Nikon 85mm f/1.4D</strong><br />I originally started with the 85mm f/1.8D, but soon sold it for the 85 1.4. Many refer to this lens as the 'cream machine' because of the great rendition of bokeh and OOF (out of focus) areas. When I had the 85 1.8 I really liked the focal length and it's a great portrait lens. I just thought I'd venture out and see what a pro-grade prime would be like and I love my 85 1.4 now :)<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/322056227_9SEXR-L.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/322612362_moPeR-L.jpg" /><br />1/250 f/1.4 ISO 400 on D200<br /><br /><strong>Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 AF-S</strong><br />I once had the 80-200mm f/2.8 AF-D and liked it a lot. I just stupidly sold it to turn a profit and experienced sellers remorse immediately. I found a great deal on this AF-S version which focuses silently and so much faster and is great at tracking moving subjects as well. A great indoor and outdoor lens. Most say image quality is the same, if not better, than the 70-200 AF-S VR. The only thing it lacks is VR (vibration reduction) so it's a bit harder to get sharp shots at slower shutter speeds, but it'll test my handholding techniques :) By the look of it, you can tell it lets me zoom in yo face. It has smooth, beautiful bokeh as well.<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/322056776_Pvozq-L.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/322615118_h87qc-S.jpg" /><br />1/250 f/2.8 ISO 100 on D200<br /><br /><strong>Flashes:</strong><br /><strong></strong><br />I currently have an SB-800 and 3x SB-600's. I'm learning lots about off camera flash and I have a 2-3 light setup. The SB-800 doubles as my flash commander and allows me to trigger the other flashes wirelessly.<br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/322056424_SdYLK-L.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://timkoo.smugmug.com/photos/322056432_rCtt8-L.jpg" /></p><p>I hope this post kept you interested a bit :)</p><p>Please leave a comment if you have any questions.</p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-680435779562786575.post-53376820633504791612008-06-25T16:37:00.002-05:002008-06-25T16:54:29.962-05:00Weekend postThis weekend I'm planning on posting about my gear. Why I chose what I did, the paths I've taken, gear I've previously owned, why Nikon over Canon :P, etc.<br /><br />If you have any specific questions you'd like me to touch on, please drop a comment. =)Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13429645210577158927noreply@blogger.com1